Sunday, December 8, 2013

Marigot Bay and the Dennery Fish Fry

 We didn’t have anything to do Saturday during the day except for relaxation and homework.  I woke up at 7 AM so I could go on a run before it got too hot.  I made friends with a man collecting horses, which they leave anywhere they can find a patch of grass for them to graze on, for the stables nearby.  He very kindly offered to give me a ride home on one of the horses if I got tired and couldn’t make it.  I got back to the house and went around the back to see the garden, which I hadn’t explored yet.  As I went around I heard voices and I came across the Leons on their back porch.  When I said hello I think I scared Janna half to death.  It started to rain, so they invited me onto the porch and offered to share some grapefruit and a golden apple for breakfast.  The way they eat grape fruit is genius! They just peel the fruit and cut of big hunks.  When you get your hunk, you just peel the sections away and eat the fruit.  It’s so much easier than the way we do it at home.  So I enjoyed a friendly breakfast on the Leon’s back porch in the pouring rain looking out over Saint Lucia after a run.  There aren’t many better ways to start the day.

After breakfast I went upstairs and did some reading and some homework.  Mary called a group meeting in the early afternoon to finalize what each person was in charge of for our group presentation at the Health Ministry on Wednesday.  Emily, a medical student we met at St. Jude’s Hospital in Vieux Fort joined us midmorning so she could have some fun over her weekend.  She is volunteering there for a month before heading back home to Indiana.  Then the internet cooperated enough that I got to Skype with my parents and Aaron for about an hour, which completely made my day!  I can’t say that I’ve been very homesick, it’s almost too wonderful here to wish you were anywhere else, but I miss my family and friends.  I just wish that they could all be here with me instead!  I especially miss Aaron.  Saint Lucia is the honeymoon capital of the world for a reason.  There are so many couples and romantic spots.  The whole island is built for romance.  But talking to them helps and I get to see my family in a little less than a week!

At 4 o’clock Lucius arrived to drive to our destinations for the evening.  We were expecting to stop at a rum distillery on our way to the fish fry in Dennery, but Lucius had forgotten that the distillery closed early on Saturdays.  I guess it’s fairly common to take a half day on Saturdays here. We’re flexible though, and Lucius wanted to take us to his home village of Marigot Bay located between Castries and Anse la Raye.  I’m so happy we did!  On the way Lucius drove us through the St. Lucia Community College campus which is in old French and British barracks from  the 1800’s.  Then we headed toward the bay.  We stopped at lookout point overlooking the bay.  The sun was just beginning to set and it was gorgeous!  They also had coconut candy that they let us taste and $1 samples of local rum.  One of the many things my mother has taught me is that you don’t pass up cheap samples of rum, so of course I had to give at least one a try.  I asked the lady working there which one she recommended and she said the spiced rum.  Perfect!  She poured me a small shot out of a plastic bottle with a ton of spices inside and said that she had added sugar and honey to it.  It was amazing.  The rum was so flavorful and sweet and it made you feel warm all over!  Lovely.


Then we headed down toward the bay.  Lucius parked the car and led us along a bridge through a copse of mangroves. The grove was stunning to walk through during sunset and it was so cool to be able to see all the roots under the crystal clear water.  The bridge ended at a restaurant called JJ’s, which was right on the water and is run by Lucius’ brothers.  We caught a ferry from the restaurant’s dock and made our way to the other side of the bay.  Apparently, part of the original Doctor Dolittle, which I enjoyed many times as a child, was filmed at that spot!  They now have a hotel and restaurant called Dolittle’s there in reference to the movie.  The sunset was unbelievable; everything looked fake or like it belonged on a post card.  We met a few British boys who took our picture for us and checked out the restaurant.  Then we made our way back across the bay, through the mangroves, and to the van to get on our way, at last, to Dennery.


We reached Dennery about 45 minutes and one trip through a banana plantation later.  The fish fry was on the beach and it wasn’t very busy when we arrived at about 8 PM.  Lucius said we were early yet.  There were several large wood vendors set up with food and alcohol everywhere.  You could get tuna, mahi mahi, snapper, conch, lobster, and who knows what else. You could get your fish grilled, roasted, or steamed. I decided to get a small, grilled red snapper.  They gave me a plate with a whole fish!  Bones and all!  I also got some Chairman’s rum and coke and Griffin and I shared salad, rice, a piece of fried bread, and the local beer called Piton.  Everything was delicious, but I was having a hard time eating my fish with all the bones in it.  Finally, I asked Lucius if I was allowed to eat with my hands.  He assured me it was and after that I had no problem eating the entire fish! 


Well, everything but the head.  Lucius explained that getting to eat the head of the fish is an honor, but I couldn’t bring myself to do it.  THEN, he freaking stuck his fish head in his mouth, sucked all the meat off it, and spit the eye back out into his palm to show me. WHOA!  I asked him to do it again with my fish so I could film it or take a picture, but he wouldn’t.  Too bad.  After dinner we put our feet in the ocean and enjoyed some R&B and Reggae being played by a DJ.  Unfortunately, although there were more people, no one started dancing before we left.  On the way back to the van, an old homeless woman started harassing us.  We were obviously the likely targets as we were some of the only white people there, and they woman had some obvious mental disabilities.  At one point she even jumped forward and snapped her teeth at me! Thankfully, Lucius stepped in between us and got us all to the van unscathed. 


Then we drove all the way back to Rodney Bay.  Lucius drove so nicely that I didn’t feel nauseated the entire evening.  Thank goodness!  We stopped at the market to pick up supplies for our beach day the next day before finally making it back to the apartments at about 11 PM where we promptly paid Lucius well for his hard work and crawled into bed.  Despite the unsettling experience toward the end, it was a truly wonderful evening in Saint Lucia.

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